Understanding the development of medieval Icherisheher and urban life in Baku is key to understanding the current economic, material and moral culture of present day Azerbaijan.Historical and archeological materials show that Baku, like many other Azerbaijani cities, emerged as a result of the growth of an economically advanced and densely populated ancient settlement. Resources such as oil and salt were a key factor for the growth of Baku from a small settlement into a thriving city.
In ancient times, Baku was one of the most densely populated cities not only in the Southern Caucasus but also in the Middle East. The favorable climate, natural and geographical conditions, abundance of natural resources, and its location along world trade routes facilitated the economic development of Baku. The mild climate, fertile soil, and rich water resources were basic factors for the economic development that started from the beginning of the century. In the beginning of the Greco-Roman era, geographer Claudius Ptolemy (70-147AD) mentioned Baku as Baruka or Gaytara among 28 towns in the territory of Albania in his work “Geography.”
The recognition of Baku as a “sacred” land of fire has played a significant role in its history. Christianity, idolatry and fire worship spread here before the Arabian conquest and their shrines existed in various parts of Azerbaijan. Ancient Baku was also one of the main holy places of fire-worship. Sources also contain information that Baku was invaded in 624 AD by Byzantine Emperor Iracly (610- 641 AD) and that many sacred monuments were destroyed during the invasion.
Icherisheher is an entity with its own fate. Some cities have fallen outside of the reach of military and political events while others have been engulfed in the thick of historical events. Some cities have not been able to endure plundering, feudal conflicts and natural catastrophes. As for Baku, the favorable climatic conditions, strong economy, trade and handicrafts have allowed it to prosper throughout time.
The diverse architecture of Icherisheher demonstrates the workmanship of skilled architects and craftsmen and takes us back in time to the past.
When we see the narrow, crooked streets and squares of Icherisheher which still exist today, we can trace the gradual changes that occurred in the city over the centuries. Within its walls, we can imagine that we are traveling back in time to the past. Tracing urban planning traditions in “cultural layers,” we can almost see and hear the people who lived and worked here and their devotion to their crafts and livelihoods.
Crowded market squares, bustling streets and large districts emerged in Icherishher. There were internal community (mahalla) structures which had been developed primarily as an economic centre. Specifically, local government played a key role in the household and economic activities of its residents and neighboring settlements, maintaining close economic and cultural ties with areas near and remote. One of the key factors in Baku’s rise to an advanced city was its transformation into one of the handicraft centers of the country. Various handicraft sectors were developed here including the production of goods such as pottery, metal and glass wares which provided local people with a variety of necessary goods. One of the significant factors of the city economy was the production of valuable goods. Building and maintaining a water supply, sanitary and sewage systems, and planting works all played an important role in the development of the city. Many of these public works projects were achieved during Baku’s medieval period.
The city, built on a high hill in the form of an amphitheatre, is exposed to the sea in the lower part, and is surrounded by the Caucasus mountains in the upper part. With its triple row of fortress walls, the Maiden Tower and other fortification facilities, Icherisheher appeared to be an impressive stronghold.
Like other medieval towns, all the buildings within the fortress walls of Icherisheher (the Walled City - Shehristan) were of a defensive nature in terms of their tactical and strategic functions. The urban pattern of the city suggested a real labyrinth. Large squares and wide streets gradually narrowed and shrank into a geometric design that allowed the full involvement of residents in defensive activities.
When the city walls or the warriors could not withstand the enemy, the citizens would join in the defensive actions. First, the cavalry could not enter the narrow streets and blind alleys because it was impossible to turn back or to drive the horses into such narrow alleys. The enemy troops who entered Icherisheher became lost in these alleys as if falling into a trap. Then residents, adults and children alike, would pour tar or boiling water onto the enemies or throw stones at them. In this way, citizens were able to stand up together against the enemy, displaying the courage to defend their country and city from hostile forces.
Even now, the national army and armed forces study the defensive skills of our ancestors. Icherisheher and its defensive fortresses are symbols of patriotism and a great source of national pride and dignity.

Flame Towers (Azerbaijani: Alov Qüllələri) is the tallest skyscraper in Baku, Azerbaijan with a height of 190 m (620 ft). The buildings consist of apartments, a hotel and office blocks. The estimated cost of Flame Towers is around US$350 million. Construction began in 2007, with completion in 2012.The facades of the three Flame Towers are turned into gigantic display screens with the use of more than 10,000 high-powerLED luminaires, supplied by the Osram subsidiary Traxon Technologies and Vetas Electric Lighting.
On 5 June 2014, Lamborghini opened a branch in Azerbaijan for the first time. Its dealership is located on the ground floor of the East tower of the Flame Towers.
The Flame Towers consist of three buildings; south, east and west.
IlluminationAccording to a poll of skyscrapercity.com, the Illumination of Flame Towers designed by HOK was one of the best in the world. The Flame Towers are completely covered with the LED screens that display the movement of a fire visible from the farthest points of the city.^[7]In popular cultureThe building was featured in Extreme Engineering, a documentary television series that airs on the Discovery Channel and the Science Channel. The episode called "Azerbaijan's Amazing Transformation" was aired on April 22, 2011 as part of Season 9.

• The nation's hosting of the Eurovision Song Contest 2012 after its Win in the 2011 contest brought it into the spotlight. The flame towers appeared prominently in trailers before many entries.

Baku is the capital of Azerbaijan.  Panaramic view of the city...

Azerbaijan is the largest country in the Caucasus region located at the crossroads of Western Asia and Eastern Europe, it is bounded by the Caspian Sea to the east, Russia to the north, Georgia to the northwest, Armenia to the west, and Iran to the south.

Azerbaijan has an ancient and historic cultural heritage, including the distinction of being the first Muslim-majority country to have operas, theater and plays. The Azerbaijan Democratic Republic was established in 1918, but was incorporated into the Soviet Union in 1920. Azerbaijan regained independence in 1991.

The name of Azerbaijan derives from that of Atropates, a Persian satrap under the Achaemenid Empire, who was later reinstated as the satrap of Media under Alexander the Great.

Three physical features dominate Azerbaijan: the Caspian Sea, whose shoreline forms a natural boundary to the east; the Greater Caucasus mountain range to the north; and the extensive flatlands at the country's center. There are also three mountain ranges, the Greater and Lesser Caucasus, and the Talysh Mountains, together covering approximately 40 percent of the country.

9 out of 11 existing climate zones are present in Azerbaijan. Both the absolute minimum temperature ( -33 °C/-27.4 °F ) and the absolute maximum temperature ( 46 °C/114.8 °F ) were observed in Julfa and Ordubad.

Around 95 percent of the population are Muslims. 85% of the Muslims are Shia Muslims and 15% Sunni Muslims, and the Republic of Azerbaijan has the Second highest Shia population percentage after Iran.

The official language is Azerbaijani, which belongs to the Turkic language family, spoken in southwestern Asia, primarily in Azerbaijan and Iranian Azerbaijan. The language is very similar to Turkish and people can easily speak to each other though would feel a strong accent of the opponent.

do you want to see snowman? Come to Khinaliq

Khinalug, Khinalugh, or Khinalig (Azerbaijani: Xınalıq; Khinalug: Kətş; also rendered as Khanaluka, Khanalyk,Khinalykh, or Khynalyk) is an ancient Caucasian village going back to the Caucasian Albanian period. It is located high up in the mountains of Quba Rayon, Azerbaijan. It is also a municipality in Quba Rayon, which consists of the villages of Khinalug andQalayxudat.

It is located just north of Quba in the middle of the Greater Caucasus mountains that divide Russia and the South Caucasus. Khinalug is also the highest, most remote and isolated village in Azerbaijan and among the highest in the Caucasus. The weather changes dramatically during summer and winter, ranging from −20°C to 18°C. Khinalug has a population of about 2,000 people. This small group of people speaks the Khinalug language, which belongs to the Northeast Caucasian language family, although many speak Azerbaijani as well.

Because of its location, scenery and relative isolation, Khinalug is considered one of Azerbaijan's premiere destinations for hikers and adventure travellers in such travel guides as Lonely Planet.

   History

Khinalug is among the most ancient and continuously inhabited places in the world, with history of over 5,000 years. Because of the high altitude and remoteness of Khinalug it managed to survive and withstand many invasions. There are also some other historical places such as a 12th-century mosque, a 15th-century mosque, and several ancient cemeteries between the mountains. There are also many ancient holy caves of early humans.

On 7 October 2006, the Azerbaijani president announced plans to modernize the educational buildings, infrastructure, governmental buildings and other resources of Khinalug. The unique original ethnoculture and unique language together means Ketsh Khalkh of Azerbaijan. The Khinalug language requires more detailed research. Archaeological research also will help to give answers to many questions. To find and keep in a protogenic kind sources is the main task. BIRJA is supporting these efforts.

Khinalug was included on the World Monuments Fund's 2008 Watch List of the 100 Most Endangered Sites^[7] due to concern over the building of a road between Khinalug and Guba. The listing is not intended to criticize potential tourist and commercial activity in Khinalug, rather it is intended as a warning that new development should not come at the cost of the site's essential, historic character.

Architecture

The houses, made of cobblestone and stretching up the hill, resemble multi-storied buildings. In his recollection of 'Memories on the Village of Khinalug', Rasul Rza used to compare these houses with a whole range of eagle's nests. Khinalug has been designated as a Nature Reserve, and therefore construction is forbidden in the area.

Currently, the village has three hundred and eighty houses. The roof of one house serves as a small courtyard for another one built at a higher level. These houses are built densely together because the hills are very steep. Tiny gardens are built inside the courtyards. The houses are 200-300 years old, and there are many ruins of older buildings in the village. Khynalyg has preserved its architectural style. As one approaches the village, a picturesque panorama unfurls. The view from the roofs and courtyards is captivating - and it makes one feel like a bird spreading its wings in the sky. All the houses are made of cobblestone and all of them have a similar internal structure. There is even a certain smell which is the same inside all the houses. Wherever one walks, there are multi-coloured and decorated carpets under foot. Especially designed tikmes ('embroidery' in Azerbaijani) hang on the walls.

Tikmes and tekulduz are two of the most ancient types of Azerbaijani embroidery. The master craftsmen of this profession embroider various ornamental designs on to white linen using multicolored threads. Tikmes can only be made by hand, and is considered as the most important decoration to be embroidered on clothes. Since ancient times, linens have been decorated with multicoloured threads, both in the West and the East. There are different forms of this craftsmanship in Azerbaijan. Its earliest examples are referred to in the period of Sasanian Empire (4th century). Columns supporting roofs are seen in the centre of local houses. They have no furniture. However, there are plenty of pillows, blankets, and mutakkah (long oblong shaped pillows), as well as large and small sized mattresses. They don't have tables and by custom the inhabitants sit on the floor.

Culture and customs

August marks the beginning of the honey season in Khynalyg. Local honey differs by its unforgettable taste and odour. The local people say that honey is a remedy for curing seventy diseases. In autumn, they celebrate the season of goat's meat which also differs due to its special taste.The inhabitants of Khynalyg have preserved their traditional way of life. Weddings and other ceremonies are held in strict conformity with the rites inherited from one generation to another. This area abounds with the richest traditions linked to rain and land cultivation coupled with a special attitude to domestic animals, weddings and funerals, as well as to celestial bodies. The rites and traditions that have become an integral part of life are linked closely to natural phenomenon. The villagers are mainly involved with sheep breeding. A different weaving technique is well known here. Shawls woven with wool in Khynalyg are famous throughout the entire region of Guba. Neighbouring villagers used to buy this raw material to make outer clothes. In the past, chukha, a shawl made of wool, was a national costume worn by the richer people in the villages. Wool socks which look like a mini carpet of many colours are widely worn because it is impossible to imagine Khynalyg residents in winter. One of the main activities also carried out by the local people is the collection and preparation of curing herbs. They are collected and dried for subsequent use in food making and sold to tourists.

To be fair, it is rare to find such an ecologically pure fuel. Whilst in Khynalyg, one may often notice a pile of cubes or bricks called tezek in Azerbaijani made of manure. In the past, this type of bio-fuel was widely used in Azerbaijan. The manure is piled up and mixed with hay, formed into special shapes and then pressed. The bricks formed are dried in the sun and then, used to build high walls. The bricks are the main fuel used by the inhabitants of Khynalyg: they are high quality material and do not incur any additional costs.

Ethnic background

Having preserved their rites, traditions and national costumes, the local people also differ by their appearance. The harsh weather conditions in these areas have left their imprint by lining the faces of Khynalyg's people. The skin on their faces is chapped and toughened due to the freezing temperatures, and their cheeks are always reddened. The brown haired Khynalyg people, who brown or blue eyes, are not tall, whereas the are corpulent. They are brave and enterprising. The ancient Greek philosopher, Strabo, wrote in his Geography that Caucasian Albania had twenty six tribes, and each of them spoke their own language. The people of Khynalyg represent one of these Albanian tribes and are related to the Shahdagh ethnic group. Information about the life of the Khynalyg people, who lived for centuries in Caucasus, can also be found in the writings of Pliny, the ancient historian.

The largest source of information about the ancient history of Khynalyg is to be found in eight graveyards, which cover an area several times, is greater than that of the village. The majority of these wide and long graves represent three and sometimes four burial layers. The tomb-stones' inscriptions are written in various alphabets. In order to defend themselves in the 10th century against the various nomadic tribes, special defence facilities, including a fortress, were built in Khynalyg: the main watchtower also included the Fire Worshippers' Temple. Local elders relate that the priest who lived in this Temple was called Piajomard and that he used to watch an eternal flame burning there.^[8]

Language

The Khynalyg people speak a completely original language, which does not belong to any linguistic group. No one else speaks or understands this language. The first description of the Khynalyg language is provided in the writings of R.F. von Erkert. In his book, 'Languages of Caucasian Origins', published in German in Vienna in 1895, he describes the grammar and phraseology of the Khynalyg language. In order to learn the Khynalyg language, a special branch of the Institute of Linguisics of the USSR was established in the village in the 20th century. The linguists who worked there compiled the entire alphabet of this Latin script language, which contains seventy two letters. The people of Khynalyg call their village Ketsh, and themselves as Kettid and their language as Ketshmitsl. The name 'Khynalyg' started to be used in the 1950s and 1960s. It derives either from the colour of the henna of the surrounding rocks or the name of a Hun tribe. The hair-style, which in the past was popular amongst Hun and Turkic warriors, remains fashionable. One can never see the same in any other place in Azerbaijan. Similar styles are today only retained in Siberia and Mongolia, although they may also be seen in history films. These films show young boys with heads fully shaven except for a long braided single tress that hangs from the top. Young boys used to live with this tress until their adolescence, when they were obliged to cut it off when they were drafted into the Army

Noah's Ark

People say that this land is linked to Noah, as legend relates that, having seen this flat, highland, he had then thrown out the Ark's anchor and told everyone on board to disembark.

It is also related that the survivors of a strong earthquake, which destroyed the village of Ketsh situated on the hillside, had moved to the highlands of Mount Damdam and there started to cultivate henna. Since then, the village started to be called 'Khynalyg'. The people of Khynalyg, having retained almost all of their ancient lifestyle consider themselves to be "The Grandchildren of Noah". According to their beliefs, their village was situated on Mount Ketsh during the Flood. Later, in the aftermath of a strong earthquake, no house was left standing, and the larger part of the population had been killed. The survivors had crossed the river and climbed up the slopes and established the present village of Khynalyg. Local residents relate that following the Flood, two of Noah's sons - Sim and Kham - moved to other areas, whereas lafet decided to remain there with his sons, who became the forefathers of the Caucasian people. Seashells and fossilized remains of fish discovered in this region located at 2300 meters above sea level prove that the area had been under water in the past.

Religion

Khynalyg's inhabitants are very religious and prior to accepting Islam, had been fire worshippers. Currently, there are almost ten mosques in the village. In the 12th century, Abu Muslim had started to preach about Islam in the region, and thus, the Juma Mosque built at that time, is named after him. This holy place, located on the hill in the center of the village, is considered to be the precursor of all local mosques. Two rocks, two meters high, on the right hand side of the entrance to this Mosque have runic inscriptions. A plaque situated on the wall on another mosque called Pirjomard shows the date of its construction - in 1388 AD.

In the oldest part of the village where the Fire Worshippers' Temple is situated is the Burj sanctuary, which was built in the 7th century, and is only attented during Muslim religious celebrations.

Khynalyg is surronded by caves, pirs ('a holy place' or a 'shrine' in Azerbaijani), temples and ateshgahs ('fire worshippers' praying places' in Azerbaijani). Pirs can be seen everywhere. Each of them has a grave where a holy person - the yevliya - is interred. Almost every pir has a scene, depicted on its wall, of Ibrahim bringing his son Ismail for sacrifice. The most famous pir of this village is called Khydyr Nabi. Each pir is considered as the remedy for turning away the Evil Eye. For instance, the Pir Khydyr Nabi is visited by those who have sore teeth: it is also known as the Pir of toothache. People say that if you take one of the small, round-shaped stones found in this Pir, then your toothache will be ended.

Another well-known pir is called 40 Abbal. This was the place of prayer for forty dervishes (a dervish is a wandering holy person in Azerbaijani). It is located in a cave which is two kilometers away from the village, and where a spring comes out of the ground. This spring is also considered as holy. A pipeline supplies water from the spring to the villagers' houses and the central square. During the most important events and celebrations, all the Khynalyg inhabitants gather in this square.

This actually is 'a burning' mountain, situated at 2600 meters above sea level and five kilometers away from Khynalyg. This mountainous territory is rich with natural gas deposits. According to the local inhabitants, there are more such places in the outskirts of Khynalyg. Well polished rocks engulfed in flames, as well as pebbles scattered all over, create an impression of a fallen tower. Those who come here not to pray, but to have a picnic, like cooking kebabs right on these stones, and then, to sunbathe under the sun's rays, whilst looking at the beauty of the highlands. A horse ride from Khynalyg to Ateshgah takes thirty minutes, whereas on foot it can take up to two or three hours. The legend about Ateshgah relates that a shepherd, who came here on a freezing day with his flock, had collected a lot of wood with which to make a bonfire. However, as he made it, the entire area was suddenly ablaze: the terrified shepherd kissed the stones, and started to pray to the Almighty. Since that time, the flame has never gone out, and the place is considered as holy, and subsequently became a Temple. Indeed, it may be understood from these places why Azebaijan is known as "the Land of Fire". Both water and earth burn with fire throughout the region.

Mount Tufandag located opposite Khynalyg, is considered to be holy. As a rule, its summit is covered by mists, and winds are always blowing. According to one of the legends, the ruins of the former ancient village destroyed a thousand years ago by an earthquake are located on the mountain. Certainly, the inhabitants of this village founded the current Khynalyg. According to the Khynalyg people, this mountain also has on it a place called Pira-Mykhykh, which is sacred for the villagers.

It is the name of one of the mountain chains of the Minor Caucasus, situated in the north of the country. In Azerbaijan, there are seven mountains whose heights exceed 4000 meters, and all of them are in the north – the region of Guba and Gusar. One of the summits of Mount Tufandag is 4062.8 meters above sea level, and is named after Chingiz Mustafayev, the journalist killed on the frontline and a National Hero of Azerbaijan. Tourists who wish to climb this mountain can enjoy touristic tours.

To learn about the history of Khynalyg and its ancient artifacts, one may visit the local Museum of Khynalyg History and Ethnography, which was established in 2001. In two sections of the Museum, which has a total area of 160 m² one can see traditional earthenware, clothes, carpets, household tools, coins and weapons, as well as photographs of famous representatives of the village

Legend about Snowman

The village of Khynalyg is known, not only for its ancient traditions, but also because the villagers have seen a snowman. In 1988 a young hunter, called Babaali Babaaliyev, and still alive today, was hiding in one of the caves near Khynalyg: he was hunting the wild goats, which wandered into the caves to lich the rock salt. Whilst he was taking a nap, the hunter was awakened by someone who blocked the cave entrance with his body. Babaali said that a large and hairy human-like being had stared at him in absolute silence. Terrified, he did not dare to move. His hands became numb, and he could not even make the single step necessary to reach his nearby rifle. Still looking at him, the being decided to leave. Since this occurrence, Babaali has long been in shock, has never recovered and has always avoided the place where the appalling encounter took place.

Children from Khinaliq

My trip to Khinaliq

Me with Latvian tourist in Khinaliq

Khinaliq-  panaramic view